Pumori Expedition

Pumori Expedition

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 7134m

Location: Khumbu, Nepal (28°00?53?N 86°49?41?E?)

Duration: 30 days

First Ascent: May 17, 1962 by Gerhard Lenser, a member of the German-Swiss expedition

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Tented Camping

Climbing Route: Southern routes

Grade: Mountaineering VII

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Lukla)

Group Size: Maximum 15

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Mt. Pumori is the most popular and beautiful mountain for those who wish to climb over 7000 meter peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal. In this land of mountains, Pumori stands aloof and proud as if aware of its intense effect on the valley below. From the smaller summit belonging to Kala Patter to the sparking slopes of Pumori there appears to be a path that leads to the very sky. Pumori, this incredible pyramid of snow and rocks, is indeed the pride of the Solu Khumbu district. Pumori is generally considered to be technically challenging and requires climbers to be experienced as well as in faultless physical condition. For one such climber this mountain could become the most rewarding challenger in the Himalaya. Our trek kicks off at Lukla. For the actual climb we will use the classical route, which was first opened by a German -Swiss team. We climb the enormous southeast slope till the junction with the northeast ridge. Pumori Expedition route requires the least amount of technically: but is exposed to objective dangers an avalanche prone section and a section exposed to a serious fall.

Pumori expedition Base camp will be set up at about 5300m. We climb through the glaciers for approximately 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5700m. From Camp 1, we climb 480m. on the face with 40 to 60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200 meter on a narrow ridge. From camp 2, we climb approximately 450 meters through ice with 30-60 degrees slopes passing through ice walls and crevasses. This section is prone to avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above. Camp 3 will be set up at an altitude of 6, 480 meters on the ridge. Passing through crevasses, we climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit. There are many mountaineers climbing Pumori, check their technical skills and their feelings as well as experience of climbing the Himalayas in Nepal to prepare for 8000 meter peaks in Nepal for the future climbing plan.

Day by day itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.

Day 02: Kathmandu preparetion and free day.

Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.

Day 04: Kathmandu - Lukla by flight and trek to Phakding. Teahouse Lodge or, Tented Camp.

Day 05: Phakding - Namche Bazaar. Teahouse Lodge.

Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization. Teahouse Lodge.

Day 07: Namche – Thyangboche. Teahouse Lodge.

Day 08: Thyangboche – Pheriche. Teahouse Lodge.

Day 09: Pheriche – Lobuche. Teahouse Lodge.

Day 10: Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp. Tented Camp.

Day 11-24 Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m. Tented Camp

Day 25: Pumori BC – Pangboche. Teahouse Lodge

Day 26: Pangboche – Namche. Teahouse Lodge

Day 27: Namche – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.

Day 28: Lukla – Kathmandu by flight and transfer to Hotel.

Day 29: Kathmandu free.

Day 30: Last Minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.