I Was Not Missing, Had Run Out of Oxygen

I Was Not Missing, Had Run Out of Oxygen Nowadays, there has been widespread news around the world that Dawa Sherpa, who was reported missing on Mount Everest, has been found alive after six days. I would like to clarify what actually happened to Dawa Sherpa on Everest. First of all, we need to know who Dawa Sherpa is. Dawa Sherpa was born in Khijiphalate-7, Okhaldhunga District, Nepal. His father's name is Tarke Sherpa. Dawa lives in Kathmandu with his wife, Ang Damu Sherpa, and their 17-year-old daughter.

Dawa Sherpa has been working in the trekking and mountaineering industry for more than 30 years. During his career, he has worked as a porter, cook, trekking guide, and mountain guide. He is a highly experienced, intelligent, and hardworking mountaineer with extensive knowledge of the mountains.

Although he did not receive a formal school education and his spoken English is limited, he understands English very well and communicates effectively with foreign climbers and trekkers.

I have been working with Dawa Sherpa since 2012, which has given me the opportunity to know him very closely. Based on my experience with him, he is a responsible, dedicated, and professional mountain guide.

Dawa Sherpa has successfully climbed many trekking peaks and Expedition Mountains throughout his career. He has summited Mount Everest and is well known for his strength, determination, and experience in the mountains. During one of his Everest expeditions, he was involved in a serious accident and suffered multiple injuries, including three broken ribs. Despite this, he recovered and continued his mountaineering career.

Last year, during an expedition to Chulu West, the team was caught in heavy rain and a severe snowstorm. As a result, Dawa remained at High Camp and Base Camp for several days before conditions improved. After five days, he safely returned from the mountain.

This time, Dawa Sherpa did not plan to climb to the summit of Mount Everest. However, his friend, Dawa Sherpa (known as Kale Dawa), requested that he join the expedition as a Camp 2 cook. Dawa agreed because he was offered a good salary for the position.

I suggested that he work on expeditions to Chulu Peak, Himlung Himal, or Mera Peak instead. However, he told me, “I would like to work as a Camp 2 cook on Everest one more time. I am getting older, and I may not have another opportunity to go to Everest next year.”

He also mentioned that the pay for the Camp 2 cook position was attractive. After considering the opportunity, he decided to accept the job and joined the Everest expedition.

Dawa arrived at Everest Base Camp at the end of March. During the expedition, he stayed in regular contact with us and called several times from Base Camp to update us on his condition and the progress of the expedition. As the Everest climbing season was coming to an end, Dawa Sherpa was at Camp 2. He had not originally planned to summit Everest, but one of the expedition members' guides became ill and had to return to Kathmandu. As a result, Dawa was asked to assist with the summit push.

Normally, May 29 is considered the closing day of the Everest climbing season. Dawa planned his summit attempt on the night of May 28 and reached the summit on May 29.

After the summit, he descended from Camp 3 toward Camp 2 on May 29. Dawa is known for walking slowly but steadily in the mountains. Although he is not a fast climber, he continues moving at a consistent pace and usually reaches camp safely and on schedule.

Dawa Sherpa was not actually missing. News reports around the world stated that he was missing on Mount Everest, but according to Dawa's account, the situation was different. After the summit, Dawa ran out of supplemental oxygen. Because he no longer had oxygen, he decided to descend very slowly and carefully by himself. He said, “I knew I had no oxygen left, so I had to walk slowly and conserve my energy.”

While the other climbers, guides, and team members returned to Camp 2, Dawa had not yet arrived. When he failed to reach Camp 2 on time, a search should have been initiated immediately. However, according to Dawa's account, the other teams, including members of his expedition, agency did not locate him. The huge mistake by organizing agency, team memebers who left him along.

Dawa was the last climber descending from Camp 3 at the end of the climbing season. Other climbers and guides continued down to Base Camp while Dawa remained alone on the mountain. By that time, he had no supplemental oxygen and no food remaining.

Dawa slowly descended from Camp 2 to Camp 1 and then continued through the Khumbu Icefall. Since many of the ladders in the Icefall had already been removed after the season ended, he was forced to find an alternative route around large crevasses.

According to Dawa, he fell into a crevasse during the descent. Fortunately, he was able to climb out, which he considers a miracle. Despite having no food and very little strength, he continued moving forward at a very slow pace. He followed old fixed ropes and relied on his extensive mountain experience to find the correct route. Dawa said that he survived by eating snow and ice for water, although it caused stomach pain. Even in extremely difficult conditions, he remained mentally strong and continued his descent.

In my view, this incident raises important questions about expedition operator, operator agency Liaison officer, safety procedures, and Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) to removal of infrastructure from the Khumbu Icefall while climbers were still on the mountain. These issues deserve careful review by the responsible organizations and authorities.

Despite all these challenges, Dawa survived because of his strong determination, vast experience, honesty, and will to live. His survival is an extraordinary example of endurance and resilience. I wish Dawa Sherpa a full and speedy recovery soon.