Baruntse Expedition 2019

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 7129m

Location: Khumbu-Makalu, Nepal

Duration: 36 days

First Ascent: May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Tented Camping

Climbing Route: Southern routes

Grade: Mountaineering V

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Lukla)

Group Size: Maximum 15

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Baruntse 7129m is in the eastern part of Nepal. Situated is close to Mt Makalu in Makalu Barun National Park. It is remote and at the centre of three glacier valleys, the Imja, the Hunku and Barun. Baruntse was first climbed May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Asian Hiking Team Baruntse Expedition plan would be to place two high camps on Camp 1, 6100m and Camp 2, 6400m. Fixed line would be placed on the ascent to Camp 1, below the West / East Col, to safeguard our progress. To reach the summit usually takes 7-10 hours along a stunning and exposed ridge line with fixed ropes. Descent is by the same route and we would hope to reach at least Camp 1 or Base Camp if you’re going well.

To reach Barunste Himal, we flight to Lukla than trekking all the way to Khare through Sherpa settlements. We have acclimatization climb to Mera peak 6470m and heading to Baruntse peak base camp. Baruntse Base Camp, 5300m, is situated in a broad open valley on the side moraine of the Hongu glacier next to a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain. From the Base Camp, we climb the south-east ridge toward the West Col, which is pretty straightforward. Fixed line is needed however, to climb up the challenging 50° ice cliff to the West Col, which brings us to the glacial plateau where we set up Baruntse Camp I, 6100m.

From Camp I, we ascend a long, low-angled glacier using fixed rope. The slope steepens on the approach to a small col on the South-East Ridge proper, where we establish Baruntse Camp II, 6400m. From Camp II, we push for the summit. First, we make a short steep climb on a 45° ice wall to a small col, 6500m. There are some steep steps on ice and short sections of rock to ascend, but the big challenge of summit day is the sharp ice shoulder, at around 7000m, that leads onto the summit ridge. Our Sherpa guide will fix ropes to ensure our safe ascent and descent. The wide ridge narrows closer to the true Baruntse Summit, 7129m, where we enjoy stunning views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Kanchenjunga and Makalu. Asian Hiking Team itinerary through the Amphulaptse passes to reach in Namche bazaar than catch flight to Kathmandu from Lukla.

Day by Day Itinerary

Day 01 - Arrive in Kathmandu (1,300 meters). transfer to Hotel.
Day 02 - Final Preparation day in Kathmandu, overnight Hotel.
Day 03 - Fly to Lukla (2840 metres), same day trek to Chutanga (3474 metres), overnight Lodge.
Day 04 - Trek across the Zetra La pass (4600 metres/15,100 feet), to the village of Chatra La (4200 metres), overnight Lodge.
Day 05 - Trek to Kothey (Tashi Ongma) at 3500 metres, overnight Lodge.
Day 06 - Trek to Tangnag at 4300 metres, overnight Lodge.
Day 07 - Rest day, acclimatization, explore the surrounding area, overnight Lodge.
Day 08 - Trek to Khare at 5000 metres/16,400 feet, overnight Lodge.
Day 09 - Rest day, acclimatization, explore the surrounding area, overnight Lodge.

Climbing Mera Peak:
Day 10 - Climb to High Camp, (5768 metres/18,978 feet), overnight Tented Camp.
Day 11 - Summit Mera Peak (6476 metres/21,246 feet), descend back to Mera Base Camp, (overnight camp) or Khare.
Day 12 - Extra day for summit attempt and packing up, resting, overnight in Lodge.
Day 13 - Trek to Rato Oral (4683 metres) on the Hongku Khola, which is the main river that flows from Baruntse, overnight Tented Camp.
Day 14 - Trek to Seto Pokhari (5003 metres), Overnight camp.
Day 15 - Trek to Baruntse Base Camp (5300 metres), overnight Camp.
Day 16 - Rest & Acclimatization, training, and organization at base camp, overnight at camp.
Day 17 - Rest in base camp, training and preparation at base camp, overnight at camp.

Climbing Baruntse 7129m
Day 18 - Base Camp Climb to camp 1 (6120 metres/20,100 feet), overnight Camp.
Day 19 - Return to Base Camp, overnight Camp.
Day 20 - Rest day in Base camp, overnight Camp.
Day 21 - Rest day in Base camp, see the weather and decide to summit day, overnight Camp.
Day 22 - Extra day for summit attempt, return to base camp, resting.
Day 23 - Extra day for summit attempt, return to base camp, resting.
Day 24 - Climb to camp 1 at 6100 metres, overnight camp.
Day 25 - Climb to Camp 2 6400m, overnight Camp.
Day 26 - Summit attempt (7129 metres/23,390 feet), return to camp 1.
Day 27 - Extra day for summit attempt, return to base camp, resting.
Day 28 - Extra day for summit attempt, return to base camp, resting.
Day 29 - Pack and prepare to depart base camp.
Day 30 - Hike to base of Amphu Labtsa pass, overnight camp.
Day 31 - Cross Amphu Labtsa pass to to Chukkung, overnight Lodge.
Day 32 - Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450 metres), Overnight hotel.
Day 33 - Trek to Lukla, overnight Hotel.
Day 34 - Flight to Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel
Day 35 - Extra Day in Kathmandu in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends, overnight Hotel.
Day 36 - Departure from Nepal, drop to airport as your own flight.