Baruntse Expedition 2023

Baruntse Expedition 2023

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 7129m

Location: Khumbu-Makalu, Nepal

Duration: 34 days

First Ascent: May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Tented Camping

Climbing Route: Southern routes

Grade: Mountaineering V

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Lukla)

Group Size: Maximum 15

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Baruntse 7129 m is in the eastern part of Nepal. Situated close to Mt Makalu inside Makalu Barun National Park. It is remote and at the centre of three glacier valleys, the Imja, the Hunku and Barun.

Baruntse was first climbed May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Asian Hiking Team’s Baruntse Expedition plan would be to place two high camps on Camp 1, 6100 m and Camp 2, 6400m. A fixed line would be placed on the ascent to Camp 1, below the West / East Col, to safeguard our progress. To reach the summit usually takes 7-10 hours along a stunning and exposed ridge line with fixed ropes. Descent is by the same route, and we would hope to reach at least Camp 1 or Base Camp if you’re going well.

To reach Barunste Himal, we fly to Lukla then trek all the way to Khare through Sherpa settlements. We have an acclimatization climb to Mera peak 6470m and heading to Baruntse peak base camp. Baruntse Base Camp, 5300 m, is situated in a broad open valley on the side moraine of the Hongu glacier next to a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain. From the Base Camp, we climb the south-east ridge toward the West Col, which is pretty straightforward. Fixed line is needed, however, to climb up the challenging 50° ice cliff to the West Col, which brings us to the glacial plateau where we set up Baruntse Camp I, 6100 m.

From Camp, I, we ascend a long, low-angled glacier using fixed rope. The slope steepens on the approach to a small col on the South-East Ridge proper, where we establish Baruntse Camp II, 6400 m.

From Camp II, we push for the summit. First, we make a short steep climb on a 45° ice wall to a small col, 6500 m. There are some steep steps on ice and short sections of rock to ascend, but the big challenge of summit day is the sharp ice shoulder, at around 7000 m, that leads onto the summit ridge.

Our Sherpa guide will fix ropes to ensure our safe ascent and descent. The wide ridge narrows closer to the true Baruntse Summit, 7129 m, where we enjoy stunning views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Kanchenjunga and Makalu. Asian Hiking Team itinerary through the Amphulaptse passes to reach Namche bazaar, then catches a flight to Kathmandu from Lukla.

Day by Day Itinerary

Day 01 - Arrive in Kathmandu (1,300 meters), transfer to Hotel.
Day 02 - Final Preparation day in Kathmandu, overnight Hotel.

Day 03 - Fly to Lukla (2840 metres), same day trek to Chutanga (3474 meters), overnight Lodge.
Day 04 - Trek across the Zetra La pass (4600 meters/15,100 feet), to the village of Chatra La (4200 metres), overnight Lodge.
Day 05 - Trek to Kothey (Tashi Ongma) at 3500 meters, overnight Lodge.
Day 06 - Trek to Tangnag at 4300 meters, overnight Lodge.
Day 07 - Trek to Khare at 5000 meters/16,400 feet, overnight Lodge.
Day 08 - Rest day, acclimatization, explore the surrounding area, overnight Lodge.

Climbing Mera Peak:
Day 09 - Climb to High Camp, (5768 meters/18,978 feet), overnight Tented Camp.
Day 10 - Summit Mera Peak (6476 meters/21,246 feet), descend back to Mera Base Camp, (overnight camp) or Khare.
Day 11 - Trek to Seto Pokhari (5003 meters), overnight camp.
Day 12 - Trek to Baruntse Base Camp (5300 meters), overnight Camp.
Day 13 - Rest & Acclimatization, training, and organization at base camp, overnight at camp.
Day 14 - Rest in base camp, training and preparation at base camp, overnight at camp.

Climbing Baruntse 7129 m
Day 15 - Base Camp Climb to camp 1 (6120 meters/20,100 feet), overnight Camp.
Day 16 - Return to Base Camp, overnight Camp.
Day 17 - Rest day in Base camp, overnight Camp.
Day 18 - Rest day in Base camp, see the weather and decide to summit day, overnight Camp.
Day 19 - Extra day for summit attempt, return to base camp, resting.
Day 20 - Extra day for summit attempt, return to base camp, resting.
Day 21 - Climb to camp 1 at 6100 meters, overnight camp.
Day 22 - Climb to Camp 2 6400 m, overnight Camp.
Day 23 - Summit attempt (7129 meters/23,390 feet), return to camp 1.
Day 24 - Extra day for summit attempt, return to base camp, resting.
Day 25 - Extra day for summit attempt, return to base camp, resting.
Day 26 - Pack and prepare to depart base camp.
Day 27 - Base Camp to Seto Pokhari overnight Camp.
Day 28 - Seto Pokhari to Khare, overnight hotel.
Day 29 - Trek to Kothey, overnight Hotel.
Day 30 - Kothey to Chutanga, Overnight Hotel.
Day 31 - Chutanga to Lukla, overnight at hotel.

Day 32 - Flight to Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel
Day 33 - Extra Day in Kathmandu in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends, overnight Hotel.
Day 34 - Departure from Nepal, drop to the airport as your own flight.