Kanchenjunga Expedition

Kanchenjunga Expedition

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 8586m

Location: Eastern Nepal (27°42?09?N 88°08?48?E)

Duration: 54 days

First Ascent: George Band, Joe Brown

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Tented Camping

Climbing Route: Northern routes

Grade: Mountaineering VII

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Taplejung)

Group Size: Maximum 15

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Mount Kanchenjunga at 8586m is the third highest peak in the world and the second highest peak in Nepal. Kanchenjunga (8586m) range in the extreme north-west of Nepal is aligned north to south along the Nepal-Sikkim border.

Kanchenjunga was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of a British expedition. They stopped short of the summit as per the promise given to the Chogyal that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate. Every climber or climbing group that has reached the summit has followed this tradition. Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinon.

The Kanchenjunga Himal section of the Himalayas lies both in Nepal and India, and encompasses 16 peaks over 7,000 m (23,000 ft). In the north, it is limited by the Lhonak Chu, Goma Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. The western limit runs from the Jongsang La down the Gingsang and Kanchenjunga glaciers and the rivers of Ghunsa and Tamur. Kanchenjunga rises about 20 km (12 mi) south of the general alignment of the Great Himalayan range about 125 km (78 mi) east-south-east of Mount Everest as the crow flies. South of the southern face of Kanchenjunga runs the 3,000–3,500 m (9,800–11,500 ft) high Singalila Ridge that separates Sikkim from Nepal and northern West Bengal.

Trekking route of Kanchenjunga is drained by the Tamur River that meets Arun below Mulghat. The river is fed by numerous glaciers. The glaciers north of the main peak are clockwise Nupchu, Lhonak, Chichima, Gimsung, Pyramid, Kanchenjunga and Ramtang. West and south of the main peak are Kumbhakarna (Jannu), Yamatari and Yalung glaciers.

There are four climbing routes to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga, three of which are in Nepal from the southwest, northwest, and northeast, and one from northeastern Sikkim in India. To date, the northeastern route from Sikkim has been successfully used only three times. The Indian government has banned expeditions to Kanchenjunga; therefore, this route has been closed since 2000. The Kanchenjunga area has a profusion of high summits of which three are above 8,000m. & 11 above 7,000m.

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02- 03: Climbing Preparation days in Kathmandu.

Day 04: Fly to Suketar - Taplejung and stay overnight at the hotel.

Day 05: Trek from Suketar - LaliKhark, stay overnight lodge.

Day 06: Trek from LaliKharka -Khewan, stay overnight lodge.

Day 07: Trek from Khewan - Yamphudin, stay overnight lodge.

Day 08: From Yamphudin - AmjeKhola, stay overnight lodge.

Day 09: Trek from AmjeKhola-Torontan, stay overnight lodge.

Day 10: Trek from Toronto to Tseram, stay overnight lodge.

Day 11: Trek from Tseram to Ramje, stay overnight lodge.

Day 12: Ramche- acclimatization/hiking, stay overnight lodge.

Day 13: Ramche - Kanchenjunga glacier, overnight camping .

Day 14: Glacier Camp -Kanchenjunga base camp, overnight camp.

Day 15 to Day 45: Climbing period Mt. Kanchenjunga, overnight camp. 

Day 46: Trek from base camp to Ramje, stay overnight lodge.

Day 47: Trek from Ramje to Amje Khole, stay overnight lodge.

Day 48 : Trek from Amije to Yamphudin, stay overnight lodge.

Day 49: Trek Yamphuding - Khewang, stay overnight lodge.

Day 50: Trek from Khewang-LaliKharka, stay overnight lodge.

Day 51: Trek LaliKharka to Suketar, stay overnight lodge.

Day 52: Fly to Suketar to Kathmandu-stay overnight in a hotel.

Day 53: Free day in Kathmandu.

Day 54 : Transfer hotel -airport for final departure.