Mount Kanchenjunga at, 8586 m is the third-highest peak in the world and the second-highest peak in Nepal. Kanchenjunga (8586 m) range in the extreme north-west of Nepal is aligned north to south along the Nepal-India (Sikkim border).
Kanchenjunga was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of a British expedition. They stopped short of the summit, as per the promise given to the Chogyal that the top of the mountain would remain intact. Every climber or climbing group that has reached the summit has followed this tradition. Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinon.
The Kanchenjunga Himal section of the Himalayas lies both in Nepal and India, and encompasses 16 peaks over 7,000 m (23,000 ft). In the north, it is limited by the Lhonak Chu, Goma Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. The western limit runs from the Jongsang La down the Gingsang and Kanchenjunga glaciers and the rivers of Ghunsa and Tamur.
Kanchenjunga rises about 20 km (12 mi) south of the general alignment of the Great Himalayan range about 125 km (78 mi) east-south-east of Mount Everest as the crow flies. South of the southern face of Kanchenjunga runs the 3,000–3,500 m (9,800–11,500 ft) high Singalila Ridge that separates Sikkim from Nepal and northern West Bengal.
The trekking route of Kanchenjunga is drained by the Tamur River that meets Arun below Mulghat. The river is fed by numerous glaciers. The glaciers north of the main peak are clockwise Nupchu, Lhonak, Chichima, Gimsung, Pyramid, Kanchenjunga and Ramtang. West and south of the main peak are Kumbhakarna (Jannu), Yamatari and Yalung glaciers.
There are four climbing routes to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga, three of which are in Nepal from the southwest, north-west, and northeast, and one from northeastern Sikkim in India. The northeastern route from Sikkim has been successfully used only three times. The Indian government has banned expeditions to Kanchenjunga; therefore, this route has been closed since 2000. The Kanchenjunga area has a profusion of high summits, of which three are above 8,000 m. & 11 above 7,000 m.