Pumori Expedition 2023

Pumori Expedition 2023

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 7134m

Location: Khumbu, Nepal (28°00?53?N 86°49?41?E?)

Duration: 30 days

First Ascent: May 17, 1962 by Gerhard Lenser, a member of the German-Swiss expedition

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Tented Camping

Climbing Route: Southern routes

Grade: Mountaineering VII

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Lukla)

Group Size: Maximum 15

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Mt. Pumori is the most popular and beautiful mountain for those who wish to climb over 7000 meter peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal. Pumori stands aloof and proud, as if aware of its intense effect on the valley below. From the smaller summit belonging to Kala Patter to the sparkling slopes of Pumori there appears to be a path that leads to the very sky.

Pumori, this incredible pyramid of snow and rocks, is indeed the pride of the Solukhumbu district. Pumori is generally considered to be technically challenging and requires climbers to be experienced as well as in faultless physical condition. For one such climber, this mountain could become the most rewarding challenger in the Himalaya.

For the actual climb, we will use the classical route, which was first opened by a German -Swiss team. Pumori was first climbed on May 17, 1962 by Gerhard Lenser on a German-Swiss expedition. Two Czechs (Leopold Sulovský and Zdenk Michalec) climbed a new route on the south face in the spring of 1996. Asian Hiking Team’s guide climbed the enormous southeast slope till the junction with the northeast ridge. The Pumori Expedition route requires the least amount of technically: but is exposed to objective dangers, an avalanche prone section and a section exposed to a serious fall.

Pumori expedition Base camp will be set up at about, 5300 m. We climbed through the glaciers for approximately 4 hours and reached Camp 1 at 5700 m.

From Camp, I, we climb 480 m on the face with 40 to 60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200 meter on a narrow ridge.

From camp II, we climb approximately 450 meters through ice with 30-60 degrees slopes, passing through ice walls and crevasses. This section is prone to avalanches from big sears hanging on the shoulder above.

Camp III will be set up at an altitude of 6480 meters on the ridge. Passing through crevasses, we climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.

Day by day itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.

Day 02: Kathmandu preparation and free day.

Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.

Day 04: Kathmandu - Lukla by flight and trek to Phakding, overnight guest house/Lodge.

Day 05: Phakding - Namche Bazaar, overnight guest house/Lodge.

Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization, overnight guest house/Lodge.

Day 07: Namche – Tengboche, overnight guest house/Lodge.

Day 08: Tengboche – Pheriche, overnight guest house/Lodge.

Day 09: Pheriche – Lobuje, overnight guest house/Lodge.

Day 10: Lobuje – Pumori Base Camp, overnight guest house/Lodge.

Day 11-24 Climbing Period for Pumori 7145 m. Tented Camp

Day 25: Pumori BC – Pangboche, overnight guest house/Lodge.

Day 26: Pangboche – Namche, overnight guest house/Lodge.

Day 27: Namche – Lukla and transfer to Hotel.

Day 28: Lukla – Kathmandu by flight and transfer to Hotel.

Day 29: Kathmandu, free.

Day 30: Last Minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.