Makalu Expedition
Elevation:
8,463 m (26,747ft)
Location:
Makalu/Baruntse
First Ascent:
J. Franco's French Expedition, the climbers Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray, 1955
Climbing Season:
Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
Expd duration:
51 days (typically)
Climbing duration:
30 days (typically)
Group Size:
02-15 person per Group
Mount Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world, standing at 8,485 meters (27,838 feet). It is located in the Mahalangur range of the Himalayas, southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. Climbing Makalu is considered extremely challenging due to its steep pitches and knife-edge ridges. The standard route is the southeast ridge, and climbers must navigate treacherous rock and ice, severe weather conditions, and high altitudes.
Mount Makalu was first climbed by a French team in 1955. The West Face of Mt. Makalu was successfully scaled in 1997.
Makalu has many interesting routes leading to the summit via west ridge, west face, south face, southwest face and northwest buttress. The normal commercial route is past the Southeast Peak and along the Southeast ridge. The climb is straightforward but moderately technical with exposure on the SE Ridge; it requires some fixed rope set-up.
Traditionally there are 3 camps, C1 (6,500 m), C2 (7,300 m) at the bottom of the Southeast Peak ridge and C3 (7,900 m) at the beginning of the SE ridge. With very low Base Camp, the Advance Base Camp is set up at 5500 m. The terrain encountered on the ascents varies from glacier crossings to steep snow fields and requires a good understanding of basic alpine climbing techniques. Makalu has climbed Alpine style, but traditionally all commercial operators practice expedition style to improve the chances of summit success for the clients.
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit. Ropes are typically fixed from 5800 m to 6100 m and from 6500 m to 7500 m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has seldom been attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600 m in the area of the Seignior Wall.
Asian Hiking Team international fix departure schedule on October 10, 2024, and April 18, 2025. The group led by experience World Mountain guide, 8000m peak submitters. To reach to the base camp, we flight to Tumlingtar airport and drive to Num. A week trek to bring you all the way to base camp.
Day by day itinerary
Day 01: - Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel, overnight hotel (B).
Day 02: To Day 03: – Preparation day in Kathmandu - On this day you will be briefed by our guide about expeditions in the Tourism ministry (BB).
Day 04: – Kathmandu to Tumlingtar 510 m, 40 minutes by flight (B/L/D).
Day 05: – Tumlingtar to Num (1500 m) by Jeep 5 hours drive, overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 06: – Num to Seeduwa (1540 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 07: – Seduwa to Tashigaon (2070 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 08: – Tashigaon to Khongma (3560 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 09: – Khongma to Mumbuk (3550 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 10: – Mumbuk to Nghe Kharka (3750 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 11: – Nghe Kharka to Shersong (4610 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 12: - Rest day for acclimatization, (B/L/D).
Day 13: – Shersong to Makalu Base Camp (5050 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 14: To Day 43: Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m), Overnight in Tented Camp, (B/L/D).
Day 44: – Makalu Base Camp to Yangle Kharka (3600 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 45: – Yangle Kharka to Kongma la (3560 m), overnight Lodge/Guest house, (B/L/D).
Day 46: – Kongma La to Seduwa (1540 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 47: – Seduwa to Num (1500 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 48: – Num to Tumlingtar(1840), By Jeep to Tumlingtar 5/ 6 hours drive, overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).
Day 49: – Tumlingtar to Kathmandu (1100 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house (B/L/D).
Day 50: – Leisure in Kathmandu, overnight in hotel (BB).
Day 51: - Departure from Kathmandu (B).
Cost Includes and Excludes
Cost includes:
- Transfer airport-hotel-airport for International and domestic flights.
- Welcome to group dinner in Kathmandu.
- 5 night hotel accommodation on tourist class hotel on BB plan.
- Flight Kathmandu to Tumlingtar to Kathmandu for members.
- Transportation of staffs, food supply and equipments from Kathmandu-base camp-Kathmandu-road head by vehicle and then by porters.
- Full board during trekking to base camp at the local lodges before and after expedition.
- All Accommodation during the trekking for members.
- Tented Camping during the climbing, with mattress at Base Camp for each member.
- 5 bottles of Oxygen per members with a mask set per member.
- Support of one high altitude Sherpa per member to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist members during climb and summit attempt with 3 bottles of oxygen and mask set.
- Common climbing equipment (Required rope, ice bar, ice screw, etc)
- High altitude tents for all members and climbing Sherpa.
- Applicable National Park and entrance fees.
- All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during expedition.
- One walkie-talkie sharing between client and Sherpa.
- Sat Phone available at Base camp, but nominal charge for use.
- Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging small electronics. (E.g. Mobile phones, amateur digital cameras and handheld video cameras).
- Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
- All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table and chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
- Insurance of climbing Sherpa, cooks, Kitchen Boys, Liaison Officer and porters.
- Equipments allowance, wages for Government Liaison Officer, high altitude climbing Sherpa, cook and kitchen boy.
- Rubbish disposal charges.
Cost Excludes:
- International flights to/from Nepal
- Nepal's entry visa fee.(can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
- Meals in Kathmandu.
- Hotel accommodation beyond 5 nights (as per itinerary) stays in Kathmandu.
- Personal climbing gear above base camp.
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
- Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, communication equipment and commercial filming.
- Expenses of personal nature such as hard and soft drinks, laundry, postage, telephone and Email, etc.
- Applicable customs duty and import licence fees for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal as air/road cargo.
- Personal power pack for charging heavy electronics (laptops, professional camera batteries etc).
- Tips.
- Summit bonus US$ 1800.