Expedition Equipment above 7000m to 8848.86m
Trekking Gear
Trekking Poles: Poles come in handy for balance and easing impact to your knees. Get collapsible poles that can attach to your backpack and fit into your Duffel.
Backpack: You may choose to bring a smaller "day pack" for your airline travel carry on, and this can be used on the trek if you want to carry a smaller (35 liter or so), light trekking pack. You need a pack big enough for your clothes, water, camera, food, etc. during the day.
Pack Cover: Waterproof rain cover for your trekking pack.
Trekking Clothes: Light hiking pants and / or hiking shorts for warm weather down low-NOT cotton. Shirts for hiking on nice days (t-shirts OK, quick-drying synthetic fabric is better.) Don't overdo your trekking clothes. A pair of shorts, long pants and a couple of shirts will do. Some pair of Socks, Underpants/panties/Bra, Belt, Skirt, one set sport sandals and Trousers, you can handwash them during the trek as needed.
Lightweight Approach Boots: Find a pair that fits and log some miles in them before your trip. A low cut shoe is adequate, but some hikers will prefer more ankle support.
Sleeping Bag: Bring a sleeping bag comfortable to -20 for trekking, however it is better to bring -30 for climbing. During the trekking in hotel/guest house -20 is fine but on the tented home you need -30. Down is lighter and much more compressible. Keep in mind that many of your nights will be much warmer than -20, especially on the trek in to base camp.
Expedition Footwear
Double Climbing Boots with expedition liners. Make sure your crampons can be adjusted to fit them (La sportiva - Olympus Mons Cube).
Approach boots: Which will work on the trek and approach to Camp 1, and even up to Camp 2 if conditions warrant.
Gaiters and Yaktrax or Kahtoola Micro spikes in case of snow.
Socks: Four/five sets of climbing socks.
Personal Accessories
Eyewear: Bring good sunglasses with side protection. For contact lens wearers, ski goggles with light color lenses (for use at night) might be useful in windy conditions. The ski goggles are essential for all climbers in really stormy conditions and can serve as an emergency backup for broken or lost sunglasses.
Vision correction: Bring extra prescription eyeglasses or contact lenses if you wear them. Lens solutions are not widely available in Nepal, bring enough for the duration.
Wrist Watch: With alarm and night light. An altimeter watch is useful.
First Aid: Hand sanitizer (Purell), moleskin or Compede, athletic tape, aspirin (some climbers take a baby aspirin every day up high) and/or ibuprofen / acetaminophen, Imodium, Band-Aids, antacid, insect repellant, ear plugs, and two rolls of toilet paper in quart Ziploc bags (we will have a supply at Base Camp), small towel, soap/shampoo.
Prescription Medications: Antibiotic for upper respiratory problems, Antibiotic for GI problems, Diamox for acclimatization (125 mg tabs recommended; enough for a week or more), Tylenol 3 or similar for severe headaches, Asthma medication, if any history.
Skin Care: Sun block lotion (at least #30 protection factor -- have at least one smaller tube (1 oz) that can fit in your pocket) and lip salve. Put your lip protection on a string and hang it from your neck. That way, you'll use it. It also works great for your nose.
Garbage Bags: 2 or 3 large plastic bags make great liners for your pack in wet weather.
Personal Snack Food: The food is great on the trek, but you might enjoy a few snacks (not more than 5 pounds) from home and also some drink mixes if you like these to add to your water bottle (let the iodine have 30 minutes contact time before adding). Summit climbers should bring some high altitude snacks they prefer for hard days.
MP3 Player and Books: As you want to read on the way to trekking. Plan on sharing books on hotel/guest house and on sharing books with the Base Camp.
Pee Bottle.
Chemical Hand Warmers.
Expedition Gear
Ice Axe/Ice Hammer: Bring a lightweight axe with a pick that will stick easily in hard glacier ice. Attach a light weight wrist leash that is usable for climbing steeper terrain.
Crampons: These must be sharp and must fit your boot perfectly.
Harness: Make sure the buckle is easy for you to thread in cold conditions! Gear loops will be useful for this trip as well as adjustable leg loops.
Helmet: Be sure you can comfortably fit a warm hat underneath.
Hardware: Bring 3 locking and 4 lightweight regular carabineers. It is helpful if at least one of the locking carabineers has a "key gate", like the Petzl Attaché. Bring one handled ascender and one Petzl Tibloc for ascending the fixed rope. You will need rigging material--two sewn 48" nylon slings and 10' of 8 mm perlon should be sufficient. Also include one small 5 mm prussik loop (about 4 feet of cord tied with a double fisherman's knot) for a rappel backup. For rappelling the Black Diamond ATC Guide is good since it can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm. A Figure 8 is an old standby and works on a variety of ropes and also icy ropes. While it twists the ropes more, it is quite foolproof. You might consider both, in case you drop one of them and lose it. Our guide have Ice tools, Ice screws, Carabineers, Locking carabineers, Short-5- millimeter accessory cords, slings.
Expedition Clothing
Insulated Parka/Expedition Suit: Heavyweight insulated expedition Suit/parka with hood.
Jacket: Lightweight waterproof-breathable construction with a hood.
Pants: Lightweight waterproof-breathable shell pants or bibs with full-length leg zippers. ALSO, very useful are synthetic insulation full-zip pants, for example, Mountain Hardware Compressor Pants--for evenings and cold summit days.
Mid-Layers: Fleece or Soft Shell layering pieces that work well with the rest of your clothing. A Soft Shell jacket and an expedition weight long john top will work well.
Climbing Pants: Look for construction that provides freedom of movement and/or stretch materials. Fabric should be a breathable synthetic that preferably holds up to abrasion.
Base Layers: - 2 synthetic tops and 1 bottom. Zip neck tops are the way to go.
Mittens: Fleece mittens with an over mitten. Nothing competes with a mitten for warmth when the going got tough.
Ski Gloves: A warm insulated glove with leather palm will be worn a lot of the time.
Light Gloves: Polypropylene or fleece. Leather palms handle the fixed line better, Leather gloves or good abrasion resistant climbing glove for the rock sections.
Stocking Hat: Wool or fleece stocking hat with ear protection, Neck Gaiter and/or a Buff (highly recommended), Baseball hat and Bandana.
Others Accessories
Headlamp: Bring a good LED headlamp with 2 sets of lithium batteries for cold conditions.
Water Bottles: 2 wide mouth plastic water bottles with insulated covers. A small Thermos bottle is great for cold mornings. Bring a pee bottle too.
Water purification: Iodine tablets (Potable Aqua or similar) or iodine crystals (Polar Pure). One bottle of Potable Aqua (enough to treat 25 liters) should be more than sufficient.
Utensils: Bring an insulated mug with a lid, a decent sized bowl, spoon, pocket knife and lighter.
Backpack: Climbing Backpack: Medium size internal frame pack (60 liter capacity). Look for a pack which is comfortable to carry, very durable, as light as is reasonable and one which has a minimum number of bells and whistles.
Sleeping Bag: Bring a sleeping bag comfortable to -35 for expedition. Down is lighter and much more compressible. Be sure to bring a compression stuff sack. Keep in mind that many of your nights will be much warmer than -20, especially on the trek in to base camp.
Travel Items
Duffel Bags: We normally pack all our equipment in two large Duffel bags. Make sure they are well labeled with indelible ink as well as a travel tag. The duffels go on the trek/climb with you and will be carried by porters and yaks. Except for them to get wet and muddy, so rugged, waterproof duffels are good. Bags with wheels are nice for the airport, but the porters and yaks don't like to carry them, so don't bring wheeled bags (or at least not two of them). You will also store some travel clothes at the hotel in Kathmandu while trekking, so a small additional bag with a lock might be handy. Bring 5 large plastic garbage bags to pack gear inside duffels to protect gear from rain.
Travel Wallet: Some type of secure travel wallet is a must. Remember a pen for travel documents.
Passport (valid for at least 6 months): It is easy to get your Nepal visa on arrival in Kathmandu at the airport bring a passport photo. Bring a copy of the information pages and a couple of extra passport photographs. Carry these in a separate location. You'll be glad you did if you ever lose a passport.
Camera: with spare batteries, and film or memory cards, but keep it reasonable and weight. Consider a small USB drive to make it easy to share photos with your teammates.
Bathing Suit: Towel, Toothpaste and brush, floss, mini hairbrush, razor, soap, mini bottle of shampoo, travel mirror, nail clippers, Pie bottle etc.