Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri Expedition

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 8167m

Location: Western, Nepal

Duration: 45 days

First Ascent: May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Tented Camping

Climbing Route: northeast routes

Grade: Mountaineering VII

Transportation: By Road and flight

Group Size:

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Dhaulagiri is bounded on the north and southwest by tributaries of the Bheri River and on the southeast by Myagdi Khola. Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) above sea level.

It was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition. Most ascents have followed the northeast ridge route of the first ascent, but climbs have been made from most directions. As of 2007 there had been 358 successful ascents and 58 fatalities.

When French got permission to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri, they chose Annapurna after making a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri in 1950. In 1953, a Swiss party failed, then an Argentine group tried, but failed one year later. And finally, the Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960, following a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over the Dhampus pass.

French failed to climb the summit from the North-East Col so their expedition was supported by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the "Yeti" which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m. But the plane crashed just before the end of the expedition near Dhampus pass. The pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.

Dhaulagiri Trekking starts from Beni bank of Kali Gandaki and Myagdi Khola seasonal road heading to Darbang, follow the Myagdi Khola westwards to Darbang and turn north on a tiny trail that leads through forests into the high country. Trekking trail leads to Italian Base Camp then heading to Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

Normal route is via Northeast Ridge, the original route climbed by Swiss-Austrian expedition in 1960. Typically 4 upper camps will be set up for the climbing. The Advance Base Camp is established at 5,300m, just to deposit the gear but it will not be used as an overnight camp due to avalanche danger. Hence the Base Camp 4750m will be used as Advance Base Camp for Accommodation and meal purpose. Camp 1, 5,900m on the Col east from the ABC. Along this trail you will suffer for some avalanche risk as well as crevasses danger. Camp 2, 6,400m, which is reached from camp 1 with some steep climbing sections. The ropes shall be fixed and you need some technical climbing experience with the support of your climbing Sherpa. You need 1 technical Ice Axe as usual. When you have private Sherpa it is not mandatory to take 2 technical Ice Axes. One will work. Camp 3, (7400m) will be located towards the west with steep ice and snow climbing along the ridge of Mountain. Gradually ups and down will be done several times. You climb towards the East Ridge, where you likely experience strong wind conditions before reaching camp 3. This is the most difficult part of the climb. From camp 3 we make direct push for the summit and return to camp 3 if the conditions will allow us. With difficult conditions the fallback is to set up Camp IV at 7,900m in order to attempt another summit push the next day.

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu transfer to Hotel, overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 02 to Day 03: Preparation day in Kathmandu, check the equipment, food, permits etc.

Day 04: Early morning drive to Pokhara (900m) by tourist bus, 6 hours, 200KM or flight 25 minutes, overnight at Hotel.

Day 05: Drive to Beni (830m), 4 hours, overnight Hotel or Camp.

Day 06: Beni to Babiyachaur (950m), 5 hours, overnight Camp.

Day 07: Babiyachaur to Dharapani (1500m), 4/5 hours, overnight Camp.

Day 08: Dharapani to Muri (1815m), 5 hours, Overnight Camp.

Day 09: Muri to Boghara (2050m)4/5 hours, overnight Camp.

Day 10: Boghara to Dhoban (2630m), 5/6 hours, overnight Camp.

Day 11: Trek from Dobang to Upper Vungini or Italian Base Camp (3660m), 5 hours, stay overnight Camp.

Day 12: Acclimatization day in Italian base camp.

Day 13: Italian BC- Dhaulagiri B.C.4740m camp

Day 14-39: Climbing Dhaulagiri 8167m.

Day 40: Prepare base camp return to Kathmandu. 

Day 41: Dhaulagiri base camp –Yak Kharka - camp.

Day 42: Trek Yakkhark- Marpha – Jomsom- hotel .

Day 43: Flight Jomsom to Pokhara & Kathmandu. 

Day 44: Free day in Kathmandu, Nepal hotel .

Day 45: Transfer to KTM airport for final departure.